Brandon Roofers carries out lead flashing, valley and chimney work for homeowners in Soham - and once the job is done, the way you look after your roof can make the difference between a lasting result and an early return visit.
Lead is used at every junction on a roof where a tile or slate cannot make a watertight seal on its own. That means chimney stacks, dormer walls, abutments where a roof runs into a higher wall, lead valleys between two roof slopes, and the soakers tucked under individual slates alongside a chimney. Done properly, using the correct lead code and working to BS EN 12588, lead flashing can outlast the tiles beneath it. Done poorly, it becomes the most likely source of a slow, damaging leak.
The skill in lead work is not just in cutting and dressing the sheet metal. It's in understanding thermal movement - lead expands and contracts significantly with temperature changes - and installing each piece so that movement doesn't crack the joint or pull the fixing. Every piece in a step flashing run should be no longer than 1.5 metres, lapped at the joints, and fixed at the top only so that it can move freely at the bottom.
After new lead work is completed on your Soham property, you should see neat, dressed sheet lead sitting close against the masonry or tiles with no visible gaps. The top edge should be tucked into a raked-out mortar joint (a raggle) and re-pointed with fresh mortar, not sealed with silicone. The lead itself should lie flat and smooth, without ripples or kinks that suggest it was forced rather than dressed. Step flashings should overlap cleanly at the joints, with each piece sitting over the one below.
If there is a lead valley, the sheets should overlap by at least 150 mm and the valley boards beneath should be sound. If the installer lifted any tiles or slates to fit soakers, those tiles should be re-laid properly with no missing or cracked pieces left in place.
New lead needs a short settling period. In the first season after installation, the lead will oxidise on the surface and develop a dull grey patina. This is normal and expected - it is actually a protective layer of lead carbonate and lead sulphate that resists further corrosion. You do not need to paint it, seal it or treat it in any way.
What you should do in the first few months is keep an eye on the interior of your home near the repaired junction. If the previous leak has caused damp to build up in plaster or timber, it may take time to dry out even after the source has been fixed. A patch that seems to persist does not necessarily mean the lead work has failed - check whether there is adequate ventilation in the roof space and whether the damp is reducing over time. If a stain spreads rather than fades, that is worth investigating.
Lead flashings don't require regular maintenance in the same way that, say, gutters do. But there are a handful of checks that, done once a year, will catch problems early and stop a minor issue becoming a significant repair.
Filling gaps at a chimney junction with silicone or mastic is a common DIY fix that causes more problems than it solves. Silicone does not bond well to lead or masonry over time, and it prevents you (or a roofer) from properly assessing the condition of the lead underneath. When a roofer eventually removes a silicone patch, they often find extensive deterioration that could have been caught and repaired more cheaply years earlier.
Similarly, pressing lead back down by hand or trying to re-point mortar at height without the correct access is both dangerous and usually ineffective. The mortar mix for raggle joints is specific - a 1:3 cement to sharp sand mix is typical - and improperly mixed pointing will crack out again within a season or two.
If you spot any of the following, it's worth calling for a proper inspection rather than monitoring and hoping:
Lead leaks tend to worsen over autumn and winter when rainfall is heavier and temperatures drop. A small repair carried out in early autumn is almost always cheaper than the same job plus associated interior damage carried out the following spring.
Lead flashings installed to the correct specification with the appropriate code for each application can last forty to sixty years before replacement is needed. The installations that fall short of this - sometimes failing within ten to fifteen years - are almost always those where the wrong code was used, the pieces were cut too long and couldn't move freely, or the fixing into the raggle was inadequate. Good aftercare extends the life of even a modest installation.
If you've had lead work done recently and want a maintenance check, or if you've spotted early signs of trouble on your chimney or dormer, call Brandon Roofers. We cover Soham and the surrounding area and can carry out a thorough inspection so you know exactly where things stand.
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