Brandon Roofers carries out exterior cladding installations and repairs for homeowners in Thetford, and this page explains exactly what happens at each stage of the work so you know what to expect.
Cladding is not a job where you simply agree a price and stand back. What happens at each stage - how the wall is assessed, how the old material comes off, how the new boards go up - directly affects how well the finished job performs and how long it lasts. Understanding the process means you can ask the right questions and recognise whether the work is being done properly.
Before any material is ordered or priced, the wall needs a proper look. We check the condition of the existing substrate - whether that is masonry, timber frame, existing render or old boards - because new cladding is only as good as what it is fixed to. A wall that is damp, cracked or structurally unsound needs addressing before cladding goes on top, or you are sealing in a problem.
We also look at the junctions: where the wall meets the roof line, where windows and doors interrupt the elevation, and where the bottom edge of the cladding will sit. These details govern what flashings and trims are needed and affect the price. We measure the elevation carefully at this stage, because off-cuts and wastage need to be factored into the material quantity from the start.
If there is existing cladding, we check whether any of it can be retained and repaired or whether the whole run needs to come off. Mixing old and new boards of the same type can work if the old material is in sound condition, but mismatched profiles or board thicknesses cause problems at junctions and look poor.
Where the existing cladding is coming off, this is done carefully so the substrate is not damaged. Old fixings - nails, screws or clips - are removed completely rather than bent over or buried, because protruding fixings behind new battens create uneven surfaces. The stripped wall is checked again once exposed, because hidden defects sometimes only become visible once the boards are off.
Common finds at this stage include damaged or missing breather membrane, rotten timber noggins used as fixing points, and areas of the wall that have taken damp because of poor original installation. Any of these need addressing before new battens go up. We tell you what we find before carrying out additional work, so you are not faced with an unexpected bill.
Old boards and packaging are cleared from the working area as the job progresses. Leaving stripped material piled below the work area is a trip hazard and makes the ongoing job harder.
New breather membrane is fitted across the wall before battening begins. This is a water-resistant but vapour-permeable layer that protects the wall structure even if water gets behind the cladding boards. It must be lapped correctly - lower layers overlapping upper ones so water runs over the joints rather than behind them.
Treated timber battens are then fixed through the membrane into the wall at centres matching the fixing requirements of the chosen cladding material. The batten depth creates the ventilated cavity behind the boards, typically a minimum of 25mm. This gap allows air movement that dries out any moisture before it can cause damage. Battens must be fixed into structural elements - masonry joints, studs in a timber frame - not just into the render or weatherboarding skin.
The first board is set out from a level datum, not from the ground or the existing course below, because ground levels are rarely truly level. Starting from a level line means every board above it runs straight across the elevation.
Boards are cut to length with the correct tools for the material. Timber is cut with a saw; fibre cement requires a specialist cutting method with dust control to protect the installers. All cut ends on timber are sealed with end-grain preservative before the board is fixed. Skipping this step is one of the most common causes of rot starting at cut ends around window reveals and at corners.
Fixings go in at the correct centres specified for the board profile. Where a concealed fixing system is used, clips are set into the correct slot so boards can move slightly without cracking. Where face-fixings are used, screw heads are countersunk and the type of fixing specified for the material is used - stainless steel fixings for timber and composite to avoid rust staining.
Board ends are never butted tightly together at joints. An expansion gap is left to allow for movement, and the joint is either covered by a trim or positioned behind an overlap. At corners, boards are mitred or finished with a purpose-made corner trim depending on the profile and the preference of the homeowner.
This is the stage that separates a well-fitted job from one that will leak. Wherever the cladding meets a window frame, a door surround, the soffit above, or the bottom edge above a path or ground, the junction is finished with either a purpose-made trim profile or a lead or aluminium flashing.
Window and door reveals are particularly important. The boards need to turn into the reveal correctly, or a trim must cover the gap and be sealed at every edge. Sealant joints around windows are tooled rather than left rough, and only a sealant compatible with the cladding material is used - some sealants attack certain coatings or cause staining.
At the top of the elevation, where cladding meets the fascia or roof overhang, a closing trim keeps birds and insects from nesting in the cavity. This is often skipped on poorly executed jobs, and the result is nesting material blocking ventilation and moisture building up.
If the boards are supplied pre-finished from the manufacturer, the final stage is a visual check of every board and junction before the scaffold or access equipment comes down. Any face marks or sealant smears are cleaned back. On timber boards that are being painted or stained on site, the primer and finish coats go on at this stage, and the elevation is checked for any areas where the coating has not taken evenly.
All offcuts, old boards, packaging and fixings are cleared from the site. If the job involved removing old boards, these are taken away rather than left for the homeowner to deal with.
Cladding work near Thetford often coincides with fascia and soffit replacement, guttering repair or installation, or checking the roof overhang above the new elevation. We carry out all of these and can advise whether they are worth combining with the cladding project while access is already in place.
If you want a proper assessment and a clear price broken down by stage, call Brandon Roofers to arrange a visit to your property in or near Thetford.
No obligation · We usually respond within 2 hours
Storm damage, active leak, damaged ridge - we aim to be on-site within 24 hours.
