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Exterior Cladding in Soham

Brandon Roofers installs and repairs exterior cladding for homes in Soham, working with timber, composite, and fibre cement systems.

Exterior Cladding · Soham

Expert Exterior Cladding
in Soham

What exterior cladding involves

Exterior cladding sits over your wall on a batten framework, creating a rainscreen that sheds water before it reaches the masonry or existing render. We install timber, composite, and fibre cement boards, taking care with every junction - the roof line, soffits, window reveals, and corners - because those are the points where poorly fitted cladding fails first. A properly installed system protects the wall for many years and gives the property a clean, maintained appearance.

Material choice matters. Softwood timber is the most affordable starting point but needs regular treatment to stay sound. Modified timber and hardwood last considerably longer with less upkeep. Composite boards offer the timber look with good dimensional stability in wet conditions. Fibre cement is the most durable option, non-combustible and low maintenance, though it carries a higher initial cost. Installed costs in the current market typically range from around £60-£90 per square metre for basic softwood up to £100-£150 for fibre cement, depending on the area and the complexity of the detailing.

Why aftercare matters as much as the installation

The installation is only the start. How you look after cladding in the years that follow determines how long it performs well and whether you avoid costly repair work further down the line. This page focuses specifically on that aftercare - what to do, when to do it, and how to spot the early signs of a problem before it becomes expensive.

Timber cladding: a maintenance schedule that actually works

Untreated or under-maintained softwood is the most common source of premature cladding failure. The surface coating - whether paint, stain, or oil - is what keeps moisture out of the wood. Once it cracks or peels, water enters the grain, and frost then forces those fibres apart. A board that looks fine in summer can be splitting by the following spring.

For softwood cladding, a realistic maintenance cycle is inspection and light treatment every two to three years. Do not wait until the coating has failed visibly - by then the wood has already been taking water. Hardwood and modified timber products are considerably more forgiving and may only need attention every five to seven years, but they still benefit from periodic inspection.

When treating timber cladding, pay particular attention to end grain at joints, cut edges around fixings, and any area where boards overlap. Those spots dry out last and hold moisture longest. If you are applying a product yourself, use one that is rated for exterior vertical timber and follow the manufacturer's preparation instructions rather than applying over a surface that has not been properly cleaned.

Composite and fibre cement: lower maintenance but not zero maintenance

Composite and fibre cement boards do not rot or split the way untreated timber does, but they are not entirely self-maintaining. Composite boards can accumulate green algae in shaded or north-facing elevations, particularly in damp conditions. Algae itself does not damage the material, but it holds moisture against the surface and can obscure cracks or joint failures that need attention. An annual clean with a low-pressure wash or a soft brush and diluted cleaning solution keeps the surface clear and gives you a proper view of the board condition.

Fibre cement retains its factory finish well but should be inspected at the joints and fixing points periodically. If the sealant at board joints has cracked or pulled away, water can enter behind the boards even though the boards themselves are sound. Resealing open joints is a straightforward job that prevents a much bigger problem.

Checking fixings and battens

Standard zinc-plated screws corrode in outdoor conditions within a few years and leave rust stains running down the board face. That staining is worth noting: it tells you the fixings are deteriorating. When fixings fail, boards begin to move, and once boards move, the joints open and water gets in. If you see rust streaks on your cladding, have the fixings inspected before the boards start to pull away.

Battens are the hidden element that most homeowners never think about. A common problem with older cladding systems is that the batten timber was not treated adequately before installation. Moisture can track along the back of the boards, sit on the battens, and cause slow decay without any visible sign at the board face for years. If you are having any cladding boards removed for any reason, ask the installer to check the batten condition behind.

Simple checks you can do yourself each year

  • Walk round the property after a period of heavy rain and look for damp patches on the wall inside - a sign that water has got behind the cladding
  • Look along each board from a low angle: bowing or cupping indicates the board is holding moisture
  • Check ground level clearance - boards should sit at least 150mm above finished ground level to prevent moisture wicking up from below
  • Inspect the sealant at all board joints, corners, and around window and door frames for cracking or shrinkage
  • Look at the gutter above the cladding - an overflowing or leaking gutter directs water against the top of the cladded area and is a leading cause of premature deterioration
  • Check for any signs of insect or bird entry at the top of the cladding where it meets the soffit

Guttering and fascias: the connection people miss

Cladding and guttering work as a system. A gutter that overflows or is pulling away from the fascia sends water straight down the face of the cladding rather than into the downpipe. Over time this saturates the boards and the batten framework behind. If your gutters are in poor shape, keeping your cladding in good condition becomes much harder. It is worth having both inspected together.

Fascias that are starting to rot also affect how the cladding sits at roof level. The top edge of the cladding must be sealed against something solid. If the fascia is soft or moving, the top junction becomes a point of entry for water and pests.

When to call a professional rather than DIY

Cleaning and applying surface treatments to ground-floor cladding is something most homeowners can manage safely. Work at height - anything involving a ladder above the ground floor, or work on gable ends - should be left to someone with the right access equipment. A board that needs replacing at first-floor level or above requires a scaffold tower or scaffolding to be done safely and properly.

If you find soft, spongy boards, persistent damp patches on an internal wall, or fixings that are pulling out of the battens, those are signs that the problem has moved beyond simple maintenance and needs a professional inspection. Early intervention at that point is almost always cheaper than leaving it another season.

Frequently asked questions

How often should cladding be professionally inspected? A thorough inspection every three to five years is a sensible practice for most cladding types, or after any period of severe weather.

Can I pressure-wash my cladding? For fibre cement and most composite boards, a low-pressure wash is fine. High-pressure washing on timber can force water into the grain, strip the surface treatment, and cause more harm than good. Use a soft brush and water for timber.

What should I do if I notice a gap opening at a board joint? Seal it promptly with an exterior-grade flexible sealant rated for the material. Do not leave open joints through a winter - frost will widen them and water will get behind the boards.

If your cladding in Soham needs a professional inspection or you want advice on maintaining a system we have installed, call us to arrange a visit from our team.

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